It’s around 10:30 in the morning and I am sitting on the ferry to Eminonu at the port in Kadikoy. While getting my latte this morning I realized that the rather large group in front of me was all Americans. It was both odd and comforting to hear my mother tongue spoken with so familiar an accent, even more so here on the Asian side of Istanbul where tourists are rare! I asked them where they were from and can you believe the answer was Buffalo, New York! It is a small world indeed!
The view from my favorite perch aboard the ferry to Eminonu.
My trusty Gypsy Wings bag from the Sterling Rennaissance Festival 2009.
I love to sit by the outside railing on the ferry. It is colder yes, but the trade off is well worth it. You get to feel the wind on your face and hear the waves and watch the seabirds race alongside in the wake. Their acrobatics as they swoop and dive for tidbits thrown overboard by the passengers on the upper decks is always entertaining. Although it is overcast and somewhat gloomy today I’m still going to try and go ahead with my plan to take a short cruise up the Bosphorus. The bright clear sunshine of yesterday would have been nice but any day in November where I don’t have to wear a heavy winter coat is a good day in my book. Besides, I am still planning on working this weekend so I can take Monday off to spend with Reda (it will be his last day in Istanbul and our last chance to see each other before I go to Egypt).
The free nature show during every ferry crossing.
Reda and I in Taksim Square.
The cruise up the Bosphorus…
I made it to the cruise ferry with about a minute to spare which meant no waiting! And much to my surprise I was also able to find an open seat on the top deck which offered an unobstructed view on all sides. Fate is certainly smiling on me today. And to make it even better, the sun is coming out!
My little spot on the tour ferry.
Although I left my work boots at home (the steel toes were just too heavy for the plane!) my trusty Aurora shoes were definitely showing every mile I have walked over the past month here in Istanbul. It was a nice surprise to find that the same pleasant old man who offered us tea and coffee during the trip also gave shoe shines. I hesitated at first, that old American suspicion rearing its ugly head again, but ultimately decided, “what the heck?” I’m very glad I did. I’d never had my shoes professionally shined before, at least not that I can remember, and I was very pleased with the result. They look like a new pair! It was also fun to practice a little more of my Turkish (he didn’t speak any English) and at the end I gave him what I thought was more than a fair price for his services. He must have agreed for he smiled very warmly at me and then much to my delight offered a traditional Arabic greeting/thank you/blessing. He was surprised when I was able to respond appropriately but that just made the whole encounter better. I’m very glad my Arabic is so much better than my Turkish.
The lovely gentlemen I met on the cruise tour.
Yours truly enjoying the view.
As you can see from the pictures the Bosphorus coast is truly beautiful, but there are so many amazing sites that I cannot possibly describe them all. I will have to let the pictures do most of the talking for me. We cruised all the way up to the second bridge and in about two hours were back where we started. There were no stops or opportunities to disembark, but for a pleasant way to spend a morning (especially one that doesn’t require a lot of walking) this trip couldn’t be beat. For 10 TYL (about $6.75) it was an incredibly affordable way to spend a few hours. If you are ever in Istanbul I highly recommend it.
A quiet afternoon...
After the cruise ferry docked my next plan was to visit the Sulimanye Mosque complex. I had read about it the other night and was very interested to see it for myself. Unfortunately, in my haste to leave the flat this morning I forgot to re-pack a scarf. I almost always carry one with me since I am never quite sure where I will end up and always want to be prepared in case a visit to a mosque becomes part of the agenda, but the good thing about Istanbul is that scarf vendors abound. I therefore had no trouble finding a new one.
The streets leading up to the Sulimanye Mosque Complex.
From top left: the courtyard between the Mosque Complex and the shops and cafes; looking up at the Sulimanye Mosque; looking across the entrance to the Sulimanye Mosque; self-portrait at the entrance.
One of the many great things about Istanbul is the numerous opportunities to just sit, enjoy a quiet cup of tea, and have the chance to soak in your experiences.
Top left and right: the shops and cafes across the courtyard from the Sulimanye Mosque complex. Bottom left: my contemplation spot.I know I take a lot of photos of various tables I have sat at, and many of you may wonder why; well, this is the reason. There is just so much to see and do here that it can be quite overwhelming! Sometimes what you need the most is the chance, after visiting yet another amazing site, to just pause for a few moments (or many) and let the experience sink in. Otherwise the effect can be quite dizzying and an unfortunate consequence can be an anonymous blending of all of the separate sites into one. Or even worse, near total amnesia for what you have seen. I enjoy these quiet, post-tour moments and do not consider them a waste of valuable touring time. Rather they are an integral part of my day and a chance for me to let each site become more fully a part of myself. Again, if you ever find yourself in Turkey, avail yourself of her many cafes for just this opportunity!
Day's end...
Another beautiful trip back across the Bosphorus to Kadikoy and another unforgettable sunset.
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