Getting started...
Today I am starting my day off here at Starbuck's near the port in Kadikoy. This is where Gwenda and I used to meet almost every morning during school to commiserate, chat, study and worry (among other things). It still seems strange to be here without a load of books and notes in tow, but then I also feel as if I have earned this respite! Somehow, that makes days such as these all the sweeter. It's about 10 o'clock in the morning and my plan for today (loose as it is) is to head to the Grande Bazaar and do some much-anticipated shopping for my family and friends back in the states. But we will see! My excursions have a way of taking on a life of their own and I have no doubt this day will be the same. But that is, after all, part of the adventure, and with over 1,500 years of history and culture to explore here in Istanbul, how could I not indulge a distraction or two?
That's my table at the lower left.
Crossing the Bosphorus is always an exciting and thrilling experience for me, and this is the first day where it has been clear enough to see the mountains to the south. They are magnificent. Even on the public ferry I doubt this crossing will ever get old. But the deep crystal blue of the waters, the sharp contrast of the white spray and the effervescent rainbows it casts so fleetingly alongside the hull, all combine to make it a very easy step into the past. What secrets these waters hold! What memories, aspirations and dreams! It is humbling and exciting all at once to know that they also now hold mine.
On our way across the Bosphorus. Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque are in the background.
The Galata Tower and Bridge in Karakoy.
As we approach the Golden Horn we pass Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque glittering in the clear Mediterranean sunlight. The sight of them nearly moves me to tears every time. And if such a reaction can be pulled from my own 21st century, been-there-done-that, somewhat jaded eyes which have seen so many wonders of our modern age, what must it have been like centuries or millennia ago? I always feel in the presence of something so much larger than myself here. Of course that presence is partly divine (how could it not be with so many magnificent sites around me) but I speak as well of the inexorable pulse of human history. Naturally this pulse beats everywhere in the world, but there are some places where it is at once deeper and closer to the surface. For me, Istanbul is one of those places. (For those of you familiar with upstate New York, Green Lakes also has this affect on me and is why I love it so.) Since I finished my training I go to bed every night with two books: one, A Brief History of Islam and the other an in-depth guide to Turkey. The more I read and learn about this part of the world the greater my appreciation for it becomes. If, as Shakespeare wrote, all the world is a stage, Istanbul has certainly had its share at center.
The Blue Mosque is on the left and Aya Sofya is on the right
When the weather is nice and I have the energy one of my favorite things to do here in Istanbul is to find new ways to get to familiar places. Sometimes this works and sometimes it doesn't, but no matter what I always gain useful knowledge in the process. Today, for example, I decided to try and find a new way to Sultanahmet (where Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, the Archaeological Museum, etc. are located). The Grande Bazaar is just a few blocks to the west. As I wound my way up and down unfamiliar streets and lanes it was a great joy to see all the shops and bookstores and cafes that would otherwise have remained hidden. For a litero-phile such as myself this place is a real treat. My first clue that my direction sense had not failed me entirely was a row of gleaming white tour buses disgorging a seemingly endless stream of tourists onto the sidewalk. I smiled to myself. I was definitely in the right place. I had found the Grande Bazaar at last.
A side-street passed on my way to the Bazaar.
The tourist onslaught.
The entrance to the Grande Bazaar.
1:00pm respite...
How can I possibly describe the Grande Bazaar? It is Las Vegas meets the Olde World. It is an exercise in focus and concentration, and a practice in browsing while not looking like you are browsing. It is certainly an experience not to be missed here in Istanbul but one I am not sure I will ever feel necessary to repeat. As I sit here in the Pasaj No. 47 Cafe, after having just finished a splendid meal and a bottle of water, I am tired and emotionally drained but nevertheless satisfied with my purchases. I take away from the Bazaar nothing for myself other than the experience and, as always, a deeper appreciation for and understanding of Istanbul. But I did find all that I had hoped to find and am happy to know that the possession of these items by my family and friends can also include the story of my experiences in obtaining them today.
The main thoroughfare within the Bazaar.
One of the smaller side, thoroughfares.
The best laid plans...
After finishing my holiday shopping at the Grande Bazaar I took a quick turn through the Egyptian Spice Bazaar (now much more manageable!) to pick up a few extra items. My plan was to then take a leisurely stroll back to the courtyards surrounding Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque, find a cafe with a table in the warm November sunshine, catch up on my journaling over a cup of sweet Turkish tea and have some supper. However, on my way up the last hilly block, my senses were caught by the sound of lively Turkish instrumental music and I simply had to stop. The proprietors, as always, were friendly and welcoming and even though a coveted outdoor table was temporarily unavailable, they helped me settle in to a table by the window inside. But soon I was happily ensconced at my own private outdoor table tucked into the end of the courtyard where I had a perfect view of all the goings on. While I perused the menu (so much to choose from!) they brought me a steaming cup of hot sage tea, the aroma of which makes me think it will be simply too delicious to drink (suspicion confirmed). After several minutes of deliberation I decided to splurge a little on my meal: some cold mezze of a spicy hot tomato spread and a main course of grilled lamb with vegetables. Another fabulous day here in Istanbul has me feeling very magnanimous and I may even spring later on for dessert. This is the best thing about loose plans which allow for distractions: quite often you end up far better off!
The view from my table.
One great meal...
The post-meal food coma...
Like so much else here in Turkey the meal was amazing. The photos just don't do it justice! Unfortunately, I had no room left for dessert but there's always next time. Instead, I opted for a cup of Turkish coffee and a few more moments of music. My coffee arrived with the usual glass of water and to my surprise, three small pieces of Turkish Delight, so I guess I get a bit of dessert after all. I was nearly halfway through my coffee before I realized that singing had been added to the music. It blended so well I didn't even register it until now! My foot simply won't stop tapping and the urge to get up and join the musicians is surprisingly strong. It makes me miss my bellydancing days! But again, there is just something about Turkish culture that makes staying as a pure observer just about impossible. This culture doesn't just invite you to participate in it, it woos you, cajoles you, entices and tempts you. You want to be a part of it. Not in a bad "I'm losing my own identity" sort of way, but rather as a "This is yet another rich and meaningful experience I can't rob myself of having" sort of way. Just come here and sit and watch the people and the city and the culture. Within 30 minutes you will find your seat very hard to maintain. There is something for everyone here and everyone will come away better for the visit.
...and one happy traveller.
Heading home...
It has been another great day here in Eminonu. As the sun sinks below the Mediterranean and the sky displays the city in a glory of splendid color, I sit contented and happy on the ferry back to Kadikoy.
Sunset over Sultanahmet.
Day's end...
My day ends with a hot mocha at a little cafe we used to pass almost everyday as students and always wanted to stop at but never had the time. It has these great big, hot pink plush chairs that just scream out for you to settle back into them. Tonight I am obliging this request.
The pink chair cafe.
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