I started with the usual trip across the Bosphorus; however, this morning had the added mystery of a tall column of thick white smoke emanating from between some buildings near the Galata Tower. The night before had been the first real night where I myself was chilly so I know the folks around here must have been cold. Having grown up and lived in some rather chilly parts of the US myself, I know that the first few weeks of “heater and furnace weather” are always the most dangerous in terms of fire. I said a silent prayer that no one was hurt in this one.
After we landed in Karakoy (I hope my Turkish friends will forgive the improper spelling. I can’t figure out to make the proper letters on my computer!) I started the very long and very steep climb up the hills to Taksim Square. Yes, I am definitely not missing the YMCA. But walking to your destination here in Istanbul is a part of the experience that really should not be skipped. You pass stores and cafés and shops and markets that would otherwise have remained hidden and unknown. You get to see the people and hear the language. Yes, there is something to be said for having a tour bus or a taxi drop you off at the front door so to speak (and I must admit that there have been a few times even I have given in to that temptation) but while I am able I will try to walk as much as I can.
And so it was on just such a walk that much to my surprise I came across the source of the white smoke I had seen earlier. My first clues were the thick rivulets of dirty and foamy water snaking their way past me down the steep slope of the street. It’s not uncommon to find people washing the sidewalks and steps outside of their businesses early in the morning and at first I thought this must be the case. But the amount of water was troubling. More than once I had to hop up onto the curb to avoid getting my feet and ankles thoroughly soaked. Then I saw the flashing lights and smelled the smoke. I took a few more cautious steps around the next curve and slowed my step. A large red fire truck, made even larger by the narrowness, the curve and the extreme slope of the street, was parked just ahead in front of a building gutted black by fire but still dripping and smoldering. I stopped a good block away and tried to survey the scene a little closer. The firefighters and police were having to compete with both local and foreign gawkers, cameras in hand, who were all trying to get as close as possible to the scene. My sympathies were with the outnumbered officials. I thought very briefly of adding myself to the fringes of the gawker mix but quickly decided that this would just be too obnoxious and instead snapped a few quick shots from where I stood and then turned down the first street on my left.
See the white smoke in the background?
My plan had been to try and circumvent the fire scene but as I got about halfway down the block I passed a café with a sign for free wireless internet that simply looked too inviting to pass up. So I went in. As usual, I was greeted very warmly and shown to a lovely little table by a window in the back. I ordered some water and tea and as I waited for both looked over the lunch menu. Now I must say that I have become a very serious fan of soups here in Istanbul and I have yet to find one that I have not loved and will miss dearly on my departure. I opted this time for the lentil soup and I was not disappointed. Although everyone in the café spoke excellent English they were all patient with my attempts to practice my limited Turkish and I spent a thoroughly enjoyable hour savoring my meal, checking my emails, and generally just enjoying the ambiance and view. I was also able to learn, much to my relief, that no one had been injured in the fire. Afterwards I left, and as I could no longer see the flashing lights and the crowd seemed somewhat dispersed, I re-traced my steps back down the street to see if I too could get a closer look. I soon discovered that the fire had completely destroyed a music store. I felt a special sort of ache in my chest to see the blackened shells of guitars and other now unrecognizable instruments sitting ruined on the sidewalk. The fire must have been incredibly intense since even the metal sheeting on the outside of the building was melted and distorted. I found it to be no small miracle that the fire hadn’t spread to the adjacent structures and the Istanbul Fire Department rose in my esteem as a result.
My own little corner of the world.
Above: the view of the Galata Tower from my table. Left: the wreckage of the music store.
However, having spent my lunch hour looking out of the window at the Galata Tower I decided that it needed to be my next stop. It was only a block or so away and very easy to find. I paid my fare and waited in line for the elevator to the (almost) top. Have I mentioned how incredibly small elevators are here in Istanbul? You become intimate with your neighbors very quickly and I am always reminded of the old soap commercial where some unlucky man or woman laments, “Aren’t you glad you use Dial? Don’t you wish everyone did?” Yes, that would be me chuckling softly to myself on every elevator I board here in Istanbul. But fortunately, the elevators are usually very fast so the trips are short. The final ascent to the observation deck required the navigation of a winding and narrow set of carpeted steps which also led up to a restaurant and nightclub. (After seeing the view for myself I made a mental note to come back to the former if I have the chance.) Whether you are going up the steps or down, contending with folks trying to go in the opposite direction is a ubiquitous hazard but well worth the effort.
My table and window are at the top left of the courtyard to the immediate left of the large bush.
What can I say about the view from the top of the Galata Tower? It is an amazing way to see Istanbul and I quickly earned a much better appreciation and understanding for her layout. My own direction sense within this part of the city is now greatly improved! As you can see from the photography share-page, gawking was inevitable. This ascension was well worth the 10TL and if any of you are ever in Istanbul, I highly recommend it.
There are simply too many great pictures from the top of the Galata Tower to effectively post here. I will be placing them on my photo-share site instead. But these two shots are simply too funny to not include in the original post. The first photograph is the view looking down from the window of the women's bathroom. The second photograph is something one just never expects to see sitting on its own in a public bathroom: the rare but magnificent "loo-apple."
After exiting the tower I finished my walk up to Taksim. Think Times Square and you’ll have an idea of what this part of Istanbul is like. It abounds with bars, restaurants, shops, cafés, cinemas, you name it, and always seems to be absolutely crammed full of people. My first time here was on a Saturday night with Reda and it was quite overwhelming: think Disney World at Christmas time. Yeah, it was that crowded and I was very glad to have him with me. I have since only been back during the day and I find this much more manageable.
Taksim: the Experience. 
My favorite street-treat here in Istanbul: roasted chestnuts!
Once in Taksim I decided to take a systematic approach to my shopping attack: up one side and down the other. My strategy was successful. I found some beautiful skirts in a size I am just tickled to be able to get into and enjoyed an absolutely delicious cup of hot apple tea at yet another fabulous street-side café. There are also more great bookstores here in Istanbul that you can count and I enjoyed poking my nose into every one of them. My diligence was rewarded with two items I have been looking for since I arrived here last month. First, I was able to find an English translation of the Qur’an which also includes the original Arabic text side-by-side, and second I was able to find an English version of a good (but readably short) history of Islam. As I left Taksim and headed (thankfully) downhill to the port with all of my purchases I felt like a kid in a candy store. This was just the kind of day I needed to finish my TEFL training detox.
For more pictures of my "unwinding day" see the album for November 1, 2009 on my photo-share page.
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