Pause and reflection...

I am beginning to wax nostalgic.  In a week I will be in Egypt and a new chapter of my life will have begun.  But I will always remember Istanbul.  She will never be a city I just visited.  She will always be a place where I lived.

November 13th, 2009

Getting started...
I spent a very pleasant, lazy morning chatting online with Reda and then around 2pm decided I needed to get out of the flat, even if I didn’t go very far, so I headed to my favorite haunt by the Kadikoy port (a.k.a. Starbuck’s). My initial plan was to get online and do some real-time blogging but alas, my wireless connection had other plans. Frustrated but undaunted I decided instead to head across the Bosphorus and walk up to Sultanahmet Square to watch the sunset behind the Blue Mosque. (This has become one of my all time favorite things to do here in Istanbul.) This put me in a much better mood and soon my struggle and defeat at the hands (?) of my wireless router were forgotten.

My favorite table here at Starbucks-Kadikoy.

Self-portrait of a frustrated but happily caffeinated blogger.

A change of plans...
I opted for the long route and took the ferry to Karakoy instead of Eminonu. This allowed me the chance to walk across the Galata Bridge and enjoy the sight of all the fisherman casting off the side of the bridge. It is always an amazing sight.

The fabulous Galata Bridge over the Golden Horn.  Underneath the bridge on both sides are great restaurants.

I reached the square and settled into a bench by the Blue Mosque to watch the nightly display; it was not disappointing. After dusk settled I wandered around the square a bit until a found a café I fancied and then settled in to have some supper. I opted for the vegetable kabobs, shepherd’s salad (my personal favorite salad here in Istanbul), a bottle of water, and the much-coveted glass of hot apple tea. Although I had wanted to try another soup variety, there were none on the menu. Next time!

The courtyard in front of the Blue Mosque.

An unexpected visitor...
During dinner I met a very nice young woman from the Philippines named Maria who sat at the table next to mine. She works at the spa on the Celebrity Solstice: an absolutely huge ship! She was planning on going to the Grande Bazaar and asked if I had been there. I told her a little bit about my experiences but said it wasn’t something to be missed. We then chatted about Kadikoy and I gave her a few suggestions on places to go if she ever gets over to the Asian side. She was very nice and a lot of fun to talk with, so if any of you are ever on the Solstice, look her up and say hello!

The view from my table in Sultanahmet Square.  Aya Sofya is in the background.

My table that night.

November 6th, 2009

Beyond the familiar…
It’s around 10:30 in the morning and I am sitting on the ferry to Eminonu at the port in Kadikoy. While getting my latte this morning I realized that the rather large group in front of me was all Americans. It was both odd and comforting to hear my mother tongue spoken with so familiar an accent, even more so here on the Asian side of Istanbul where tourists are rare! I asked them where they were from and can you believe the answer was Buffalo, New York! It is a small world indeed!

The view from my favorite perch aboard the ferry to Eminonu.

My trusty Gypsy Wings bag from the Sterling Rennaissance Festival 2009.

The day’s plan…
I love to sit by the outside railing on the ferry. It is colder yes, but the trade off is well worth it. You get to feel the wind on your face and hear the waves and watch the seabirds race alongside in the wake. Their acrobatics as they swoop and dive for tidbits thrown overboard by the passengers on the upper decks is always entertaining. Although it is overcast and somewhat gloomy today I’m still going to try and go ahead with my plan to take a short cruise up the Bosphorus. The bright clear sunshine of yesterday would have been nice but any day in November where I don’t have to wear a heavy winter coat is a good day in my book. Besides, I am still planning on working this weekend so I can take Monday off to spend with Reda (it will be his last day in Istanbul and our last chance to see each other before I go to Egypt).

The free nature show during every ferry crossing.

Reda and I in Taksim Square.

The cruise up the Bosphorus…
I made it to the cruise ferry with about a minute to spare which meant no waiting! And much to my surprise I was also able to find an open seat on the top deck which offered an unobstructed view on all sides. Fate is certainly smiling on me today. And to make it even better, the sun is coming out!

My little spot on the tour ferry.

Although I left my work boots at home (the steel toes were just too heavy for the plane!) my trusty Aurora shoes were definitely showing every mile I have walked over the past month here in Istanbul. It was a nice surprise to find that the same pleasant old man who offered us tea and coffee during the trip also gave shoe shines. I hesitated at first, that old American suspicion rearing its ugly head again, but ultimately decided, “what the heck?” I’m very glad I did. I’d never had my shoes professionally shined before, at least not that I can remember, and I was very pleased with the result. They look like a new pair! It was also fun to practice a little more of my Turkish (he didn’t speak any English) and at the end I gave him what I thought was more than a fair price for his services. He must have agreed for he smiled very warmly at me and then much to my delight offered a traditional Arabic greeting/thank you/blessing. He was surprised when I was able to respond appropriately but that just made the whole encounter better. I’m very glad my Arabic is so much better than my Turkish.

The lovely gentlemen I met on the cruise tour.

Yours truly enjoying the view.

As you can see from the pictures the Bosphorus coast is truly beautiful, but there are so many amazing sites that I cannot possibly describe them all. I will have to let the pictures do most of the talking for me. We cruised all the way up to the second bridge and in about two hours were back where we started. There were no stops or opportunities to disembark, but for a pleasant way to spend a morning (especially one that doesn’t require a lot of walking) this trip couldn’t be beat. For 10 TYL (about $6.75) it was an incredibly affordable way to spend a few hours. If you are ever in Istanbul I highly recommend it.

From top left: the view leaving the port of Eminonu; Dolmabahce Palace; the western Bosphorus coastline; the second bridge; the eastern Bosphorus coastline.







A quiet afternoon...
After the cruise ferry docked my next plan was to visit the Sulimanye Mosque complex. I had read about it the other night and was very interested to see it for myself. Unfortunately, in my haste to leave the flat this morning I forgot to re-pack a scarf. I almost always carry one with me since I am never quite sure where I will end up and always want to be prepared in case a visit to a mosque becomes part of the agenda, but the good thing about Istanbul is that scarf vendors abound. I therefore had no trouble finding a new one.

The streets leading up to the Sulimanye Mosque Complex.

Although the mosques here in Istanbul are technically free, a donation is always appreciated and I always like to give one in line with the cost of admission tickets elsewhere. The maintenance and overhead which go into managing a tourist population are no less, nor is my gratitude for the opportunity to visit these sacred places.

From top left: the courtyard between the Mosque Complex and the shops and cafes; looking up at the Sulimanye Mosque; looking across the entrance to the Sulimanye Mosque; self-portrait at the entrance.

One of the many great things about Istanbul is the numerous opportunities to just sit, enjoy a quiet cup of tea, and have the chance to soak in your experiences.

 

Top left and right: the shops and cafes across the courtyard from the Sulimanye Mosque complex.  Bottom left:  my contemplation spot.

I know I take a lot of photos of various tables I have sat at, and many of you may wonder why; well, this is the reason. There is just so much to see and do here that it can be quite overwhelming! Sometimes what you need the most is the chance, after visiting yet another amazing site, to just pause for a few moments (or many) and let the experience sink in. Otherwise the effect can be quite dizzying and an unfortunate consequence can be an anonymous blending of all of the separate sites into one. Or even worse, near total amnesia for what you have seen. I enjoy these quiet, post-tour moments and do not consider them a waste of valuable touring time. Rather they are an integral part of my day and a chance for me to let each site become more fully a part of myself. Again, if you ever find yourself in Turkey, avail yourself of her many cafes for just this opportunity!

Day's end...
Another beautiful trip back across the Bosphorus to Kadikoy and another unforgettable sunset.

November 5th, 2009

Good Morning All!

Getting started...
Today I am starting my day off here at Starbuck's near the port in Kadikoy.  This is where Gwenda and I used to meet almost every morning during school to commiserate, chat, study and worry (among other things).  It still seems strange to be here without a load of books and notes in tow, but then I also feel as if I have earned this respite!  Somehow, that makes days such as these all the sweeter.  It's about 10 o'clock in the morning and my plan for today (loose as it is) is to head to the Grande Bazaar and do some much-anticipated shopping for my family and friends back in the states.  But we will see!  My excursions have a way of taking on a life of their own and I have no doubt this day will be the same.  But that is, after all, part of the adventure, and with over 1,500 years of history and culture to explore here in Istanbul, how could I not indulge a distraction or two?

                                   That's my table at the lower left.

Crossing the Bosphorus is always an exciting and thrilling experience for me, and this is the first day where it has been clear enough to see the mountains to the south.  They are magnificent.  Even on the public ferry I doubt this crossing will ever get old.  But the deep crystal blue of the waters, the sharp contrast of the white spray and the effervescent rainbows it casts so fleetingly alongside the hull, all combine to make it a very easy step into the past. What secrets these waters hold!  What memories, aspirations and dreams!  It is humbling and exciting all at once to know that they also now hold mine.

On our way across the Bosphorus.  Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque are in the background.

                                    The Galata Tower and Bridge in Karakoy.

As we approach the Golden Horn we pass Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque glittering in the clear Mediterranean sunlight.  The sight of them nearly moves me to tears every time.  And if such a reaction can be pulled from my own 21st century, been-there-done-that, somewhat jaded eyes which have seen so many wonders of our modern age, what must it have been like centuries or millennia ago?  I always feel in the presence of something so much larger than myself here.  Of course that presence is partly divine (how could it not be with so many magnificent sites around me) but I speak as well of the inexorable pulse of human history.  Naturally this pulse beats everywhere in the world, but there are some places where it is at once deeper and closer to the surface.  For me, Istanbul is one of those places.  (For those of you familiar with upstate New York, Green Lakes also has this affect on me and is why I love it so.)  Since I finished my training I go to bed every night with two books:  one, A Brief History of Islam and the other an in-depth guide to Turkey.  The more I read and learn about this part of the world the greater my appreciation for it becomes.  If, as Shakespeare wrote, all the world is a stage, Istanbul has certainly had its share at center.

         The Blue Mosque is on the left and Aya Sofya is on the right

When the weather is nice and I have the energy one of my favorite things to do here in Istanbul is to find new ways to get to familiar places.  Sometimes this works and sometimes it doesn't, but no matter what I always gain useful knowledge in the process.  Today, for example, I decided to try and find a new way to Sultanahmet (where Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, the Archaeological Museum, etc. are located).  The Grande Bazaar is just a few blocks to the west.  As I wound my way up and down unfamiliar streets and lanes it was a great joy to see all the shops and bookstores and cafes that would otherwise have remained hidden.  For a litero-phile such as myself this place is a real treat.  My first clue that my direction sense had not failed me entirely was a row of gleaming white tour buses disgorging a seemingly endless stream of tourists onto the sidewalk.  I smiled to myself.  I was definitely in the right place.  I had found the Grande Bazaar at last.

              A side-street passed on my way to the Bazaar.

                                                        The tourist onslaught.

                                                        The entrance to the Grande Bazaar.

1:00pm respite...
How can I possibly describe the Grande Bazaar?  It is Las Vegas meets the Olde World.  It is an exercise in focus and concentration, and a practice in browsing while not looking like you are browsing.  It is certainly an experience not to be missed here in Istanbul but one I am not sure I will ever feel necessary to repeat.  As I sit here in the Pasaj No. 47 Cafe, after having just finished a splendid meal and a bottle of water, I am tired and emotionally drained but nevertheless satisfied with my purchases.  I take away from the Bazaar nothing for myself other than the experience and, as always, a deeper appreciation for and understanding of Istanbul.  But I did find all that I had hoped to find and am happy to know that the possession of these items by my family and friends can also include the story of my experiences in obtaining them today.

                                                       The main thoroughfare within the Bazaar.

                                                        One of the smaller side, thoroughfares.

The best laid plans...
After finishing my holiday shopping at the Grande Bazaar I took a quick turn through the Egyptian Spice Bazaar (now much more manageable!) to pick up a few extra items.  My plan was to then take a leisurely stroll back to the courtyards surrounding Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque, find a cafe with a table in the warm November sunshine, catch up on my journaling over a cup of sweet Turkish tea and have some supper.  However, on my way up the last hilly block, my senses were caught by the sound of lively Turkish instrumental music and I simply had to stop.  The proprietors, as always, were friendly and welcoming and even though a coveted outdoor table was temporarily unavailable, they helped me settle in to a table by the window inside.  But soon I was happily ensconced at my own private outdoor table tucked into the end of the courtyard where I had a perfect view of all the goings on.  While I perused the menu (so much to choose from!) they brought me a steaming cup of hot sage tea, the aroma of which makes me think it will be simply too delicious to drink (suspicion confirmed).  After several minutes of deliberation I decided to splurge a little on my meal: some cold mezze of a spicy hot tomato spread and a main course of grilled lamb with vegetables.  Another fabulous day here in Istanbul has me feeling very magnanimous and I may even spring later on for dessert.  This is the best thing about loose plans which allow for distractions: quite often you end up far better off!

                                                       The view from my table.

                                                       One great meal...

The post-meal food coma...
Like so much else here in Turkey the meal was amazing.  The photos just don't do it justice!  Unfortunately, I had no room left for dessert but there's always next time.  Instead, I opted for a cup of Turkish coffee and a few more moments of music.  My coffee arrived with the usual glass of water and to my surprise, three small pieces of Turkish Delight, so I guess I get a bit of dessert after all.  I was nearly halfway through my coffee before I realized that singing had been added to the music.  It blended so well I didn't even register it until now!  My foot simply won't stop tapping and the urge to get up and join the musicians is surprisingly strong.  It makes me miss my bellydancing days!  But again, there is just something about Turkish culture that makes staying as a pure observer just about impossible.  This culture doesn't just invite you to participate in it, it woos you, cajoles you, entices and tempts you.  You want to be a part of it.  Not in a bad "I'm losing my own identity" sort of way, but rather as a "This is yet another rich and meaningful experience I can't rob myself of having" sort of way.  Just come here and sit and watch the people and the city and the culture.  Within 30 minutes you will find your seat very hard to maintain.  There is something for everyone here and everyone will come away better for the visit.

                                                        ...and one happy traveller.

Heading home...
It has been another great day here in Eminonu.  As the sun sinks below the Mediterranean and the sky displays the city in a glory of splendid color, I sit contented and happy on the ferry back to Kadikoy.

                                                       Sunset over Sultanahmet.

Day's end...
My day ends with a hot mocha at a little cafe we used to pass almost everyday as students and always wanted to stop at but never had the time.  It has these great big, hot pink plush chairs that just scream out for you to settle back into them.  Tonight I am obliging this request.

                                                        The pink chair cafe.

November 1, 2009

Today my fellow TEFL survivor, Gwenda, and I were going to try and visit Taksim together, but alas we were unable to make a connection. You don’t realize how dependable and convenient cell phones are until you can no longer rely on them! But although I ventured out alone today my time was no less enjoyable.
I started with the usual trip across the Bosphorus; however, this morning had the added mystery of a tall column of thick white smoke emanating from between some buildings near the Galata Tower. The night before had been the first real night where I myself was chilly so I know the folks around here must have been cold. Having grown up and lived in some rather chilly parts of the US myself, I know that the first few weeks of “heater and furnace weather” are always the most dangerous in terms of fire. I said a silent prayer that no one was hurt in this one.
After we landed in Karakoy (I hope my Turkish friends will forgive the improper spelling. I can’t figure out to make the proper letters on my computer!) I started the very long and very steep climb up the hills to Taksim Square. Yes, I am definitely not missing the YMCA.  But walking to your destination here in Istanbul is a part of the experience that really should not be skipped. You pass stores and cafés and shops and markets that would otherwise have remained hidden and unknown. You get to see the people and hear the language. Yes, there is something to be said for having a tour bus or a taxi drop you off at the front door so to speak (and I must admit that there have been a few times even I have given in to that temptation) but while I am able I will try to walk as much as I can.
And so it was on just such a walk that much to my surprise I came across the source of the white smoke I had seen earlier. My first clues were the thick rivulets of dirty and foamy water snaking their way past me down the steep slope of the street. It’s not uncommon to find people washing the sidewalks and steps outside of their businesses early in the morning and at first I thought this must be the case. But the amount of water was troubling. More than once I had to hop up onto the curb to avoid getting my feet and ankles thoroughly soaked. Then I saw the flashing lights and smelled the smoke. I took a few more cautious steps around the next curve and slowed my step. A large red fire truck, made even larger by the narrowness, the curve and the extreme slope of the street, was parked just ahead in front of a building gutted black by fire but still dripping and smoldering. I stopped a good block away and tried to survey the scene a little closer. The firefighters and police were having to compete with both local and foreign gawkers, cameras in hand, who were all trying to get as close as possible to the scene. My sympathies were with the outnumbered officials. I thought very briefly of adding myself to the fringes of the gawker mix but quickly decided that this would just be too obnoxious and instead snapped a few quick shots from where I stood and then turned down the first street on my left.

See the white smoke in the background?

My plan had been to try and circumvent the fire scene but as I got about halfway down the block I passed a café with a sign for free wireless internet that simply looked too inviting to pass up. So I went in. As usual, I was greeted very warmly and shown to a lovely little table by a window in the back. I ordered some water and tea and as I waited for both looked over the lunch menu. Now I must say that I have become a very serious fan of soups here in Istanbul and I have yet to find one that I have not loved and will miss dearly on my departure. I opted this time for the lentil soup and I was not disappointed. Although everyone in the café spoke excellent English they were all patient with my attempts to practice my limited Turkish and I spent a thoroughly enjoyable hour savoring my meal, checking my emails, and generally just enjoying the ambiance and view. I was also able to learn, much to my relief, that no one had been injured in the fire. Afterwards I left, and as I could no longer see the flashing lights and the crowd seemed somewhat dispersed, I re-traced my steps back down the street to see if I too could get a closer look. I soon discovered that the fire had completely destroyed a music store. I felt a special sort of ache in my chest to see the blackened shells of guitars and other now unrecognizable instruments sitting ruined on the sidewalk. The fire must have been incredibly intense since even the metal sheeting on the outside of the building was melted and distorted. I found it to be no small miracle that the fire hadn’t spread to the adjacent structures and the Istanbul Fire Department rose in my esteem as a result.

                                                     My own little corner of the world.

                                                     The Cafe Privato and the view from my table.

Above: the view of the Galata Tower from my table.                                               

Left: the wreckage of the music store.

However, having spent my lunch hour looking out of the window at the Galata Tower I decided that it needed to be my next stop. It was only a block or so away and very easy to find. I paid my fare and waited in line for the elevator to the (almost) top. Have I mentioned how incredibly small elevators are here in Istanbul? You become intimate with your neighbors very quickly and I am always reminded of the old soap commercial where some unlucky man or woman laments, “Aren’t you glad you use Dial? Don’t you wish everyone did?” Yes, that would be me chuckling softly to myself on every elevator I board here in Istanbul. But fortunately, the elevators are usually very fast so the trips are short. The final ascent to the observation deck required the navigation of a winding and narrow set of carpeted steps which also led up to a restaurant and nightclub. (After seeing the view for myself I made a mental note to come back to the former if I have the chance.) Whether you are going up the steps or down, contending with folks trying to go in the opposite direction is a ubiquitous hazard but well worth the effort.

 My table and window are at the top left of the courtyard to the immediate left of the large bush.

What can I say about the view from the top of the Galata Tower? It is an amazing way to see Istanbul and I quickly earned a much better appreciation and understanding for her layout. My own direction sense within this part of the city is now greatly improved! As you can see from the photography share-page, gawking was inevitable. This ascension was well worth the 10TL and if any of you are ever in Istanbul, I highly recommend it.

There are simply too many great pictures from the top of the Galata Tower to effectively post here.  I will be placing them on my photo-share site instead.  But these two shots are simply too funny to not include in the original post.  The first photograph is the view looking down from the window of the women's bathroom.  The second photograph is something one just never expects to see sitting on its own in a public bathroom:  the rare but magnificent "loo-apple."

After exiting the tower I finished my walk up to Taksim. Think Times Square and you’ll have an idea of what this part of Istanbul is like. It abounds with bars, restaurants, shops, cafés, cinemas, you name it, and always seems to be absolutely crammed full of people. My first time here was on a Saturday night with Reda and it was quite overwhelming: think Disney World at Christmas time. Yeah, it was that crowded and I was very glad to have him with me. I have since only been back during the day and I find this much more manageable.

    Taksim: the Experience.                                                                      

My favorite street-treat here in Istanbul: roasted chestnuts!

Once in Taksim I decided to take a systematic approach to my shopping attack: up one side and down the other. My strategy was successful. I found some beautiful skirts in a size I am just tickled to be able to get into and enjoyed an absolutely delicious cup of hot apple tea at yet another fabulous street-side café. There are also more great bookstores here in Istanbul that you can count and I enjoyed poking my nose into every one of them. My diligence was rewarded with two items I have been looking for since I arrived here last month. First, I was able to find an English translation of the Qur’an which also includes the original Arabic text side-by-side, and second I was able to find an English version of a good (but readably short) history of Islam. As I left Taksim and headed (thankfully) downhill to the port with all of my purchases I felt like a kid in a candy store. This was just the kind of day I needed to finish my TEFL training detox.

For more pictures of my "unwinding day" see the album for November 1, 2009 on my photo-share page.